06.14.08
Posted in Rosacea Facts at 9:57 pm by Administrator
Rosacea, or vascular instability aggravated by an underlying inflammatory condition which may or may not be chronic, is on the increase. Many people are diagnosed with rosacea, at the rate of about 16 million per year in the US and climbing. Many others suspect they may suffer from rosacea because they have many of the symptoms—permanent or patchy redness and/or small eruptions on the cheeks that are not pimples—all suggestive enough that they should see a dermatologist to get a diagnosis.
While we do not know what causes rosacea we do know its identifying characteristics, and a primary one has to do with flushing episodes. Everyone is familiar with the sensation of blushing. The flushing may be triggered by UV exposure, exercise, certain foods, allergic reactions, emotional stress or heat, among other things. In normal skin flushing caused by capillary expansion recedes quickly–once the stressor is removed capillaries shrink, usually within minutes. With rosacea the capillaries expand and stay dilated for much longer periods of time. If you are still red after 10-15 minutes you may be dealing with rosacea.
Treatment
It is important to get a specialist’s diagnosis before deciding on a treatment course. An error common to people acting on their own is to treat rosacea like a case of adult acne, understandable because they can have quite similar symptoms. However, the goal of any treatment program for rosacea is to decrease vascular dilation through vascular constriction, which will minimize flushing of any type.
Diet
One of the most important factors in treating any skin condition is diet. Here are some recommendations for controlling inflammation.
1) Avoid heavy-meal flushing.
Three small meals with breakfast being the most important and grazing or snacks in between is best for limiting this kind of flushing. This will maintain the proper blood sugar content for energy to prevent fatigue or exhaustion. The type of food that you eat is also very important as various foods stimulate blood flow differently. Bear in mind that simple carbohydrates such as donuts, sugars, alcohol, etc. enter the blood stream quickly causing hyperglycemia (high glucose spikes). This rapid influx of sugar into the blood stream is a potent vasodilator. Fiber intake decreases the amount of food that the stomach has at one time and prolongs digestion; therefore, it prevents the sudden influx into the blood stream with the resultant flushing.
2) Foods to add: apple, burdock, broccoli, celery, celery root, cold-water fish& flax seeds (contain Omega-3s which quenches inflammatory cascade), onions (contain high amounts of histamine-quenching quercetin which inhibits production of leukotrienes,) berries (high in bioflavonoids), garlic, (rich in sulfer and selenium), cruciferous vegetables–broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, Brussels sprouts, bok choy, chard, mustard greens, rutabagas, turnips and kale– (contain antioxidants and the compound sulforaphane) turmeric (contains curcumin, a powerful, anti-inflammatory agent excellent for treating inflammatory problem such as arthritis, liver and gall bladder problems. It has been found to block the production of certain prostaglandins and to have effects on a par with cortisone and non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs but without the side effects.)
Supplementation will also help, especially Vitamins A, E and C and the mineral zinc, known for its anti-inflammatory properties. Everyone should supplement with 1-2 tsps of cod liver oil daily to get sufficient Omega-3 EFAs.
3) Foods to avoid: nightshades (tomato, eggplant, peppers and potatoes) (contain solamine, a calcium inhibitor) dairy except goat and sheep, transfats and animal fats as a source of arachidonic acid, excess salts and sugars (they change cell membrane fluidity)
4) Liquids: Fresh juices such as carrot and apple are a good way to stay vitaminized and hydrated. Herbal infusions are another good way to maintain a high-level liquid intake and treat your skin at the same time. Skullcap, vervain and chamomile are good for the nervous system, burdock, yellow dock and nettle nourish the skin and cool the blood, and borage, licorice and evening primrose are good to maintain hormonal balance.
Don’t forget water. The myriad benefits of water include eliminating metabolic waste build up. Water is absolutely necessary for strong, flexible plasma membranes of all cells. Vary tea and juice intake with 3-4 glasses of water a day.
Topical Treatments
There are some treatment never’s when it comes to rosacea. Please never:
1) Treat rosacea like common acne. Sulfer-containing topicals, astringents and alcohol routinely used to control acne can seriously aggravate a rosacea-type condition and create setbacks in controlling it. Also avoid topical retinoids (such as tretinoin, Retin-A Micro, Renova, Avita, Differin), benzoyl peroxide, topical azelaic acid, triclosan, acne peels, and chemical peels.
2) Over exfoliate. Too much exfoliation compromises barrier function and increases susceptibility to UV rays. Avoid topical exfoliants (scrubs and enzyme peels), AHA’s, microdermabrasion.
3) Use certain chemicals. Rosacea sufferers often develop an intolerance to ingredients well-supported by the general population, including: toners and astringents that contain alcohol and witch hazel, chemical sunscreens esp. with benzophenones and/or avobenzone, and moisturizers and lotions that contain propylene glycol, D&C colors, PEG products, fragrances, alcohol, witch hazel, menthol, peppermint, eucalyptus oil, mineral oil, lanolin, sulfur, phenoxyethanol, hydroxybenzoates (parabens)
4) Use steroids. Steroids like hydrocortisone suppress inflammation so they may look like they are working at first, but it‘s quite possible that a “rebound effect” could make matters worse down the road. With a rebound effect the rosacea symptoms return with a vengeance and are very difficult to control.
Alternative Topical Treatments
Two factors play an important role in creating rosacea: UV exposure and compromised barrier protection. Taking these two factors into account a natural program of treatment topicals may work on four fronts: protection, anti-oxidant supplementation, barrier repair and combating inflammation.
1) Protection: With rosacea prone skin we are probably looking at years of UV exposure that has done considerable cell damage. In particular UVA exposure (in the range between 320 and 400 nm) damages the elastin and collagen fibres of connective tissue, which causes the skin to age prematurely. It can also cause numerous phototoxic and photo-allergic reactions, and the damaging influence of UVB radiation may be intensified by UVA radiation. Sensitive, mature and rosacea skin types especially require UVA protection daily and year round. Zinc oxide provides protection up to and even past the 400 nm range, and is the best non-allergenic ingredient available for protection against the longer wave-lengths of ultra-violet light.
2) Anti-oxidants: UV radiation is also implicated in the formation of ionic species (free radicals), which are capable of intervening oxidatively in biochemical processes. To prevent these reactions additional antioxidants and/or free-radical scavengers should be incorporated into cosmetic or dermatological formulations. All skin types should look for anti-oxidants like Vit E, Vit C, alpha-lipoic acid, and Co-enzyme-Q (idebenone) in their topicals.
3) Repair: Sensitive, dry or problematic skin often starts with a compromised “permeable” barrier (the top layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum, which retains moisture). Products having an occlusive action or lipid-substituting products which lower the TEWL (transepidermal water loss) are recommended for barrier regeneration. Sensitive, mature, rosacea and even acneic skin types should be aware that lipids are the skin’s first line of defense against invasion by bacteria, pollution and UV exposure. Lipids with a good Omega3/6 EFA ratio like emu oil and krill oil are the most effective repair oils as they replenish the ceramides in the stratum corneum.
4) Combatting inflammation: topical products containing effective anti-inflammatories like curcumin, licorice root and Sophora flavascens can help to minimize flare-ups when they occur.
Marie-Veronique topical products that are excellent for treating rosacea-prone skin may be found at:
http://www.marieveronique.net/index.php?page=skin-care-protocol–rosacea-prone-skin
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06.13.08
Posted in Skin Aging Facts, skin care news at 3:55 pm by Administrator
Scientists in South Korea claim to have uncovered a fat molecule with strong anti-aging potential from tests on the ability of lipids to fight skin aging (see page on column right for full story). The study, published in Volume 49, June 2008 issue of the Journal of Lipid Research, looked into the role of fat molecules in protecting aging effects of skin, with the most promising results coming from phosphatidylserine (PS). Their findings suggested that ‘PS may be a simple and natural way to fight wrinkles.’
This study points to the direction natural anti-aging skin care is taking. Whether your issue is rosacea, eczema, aging, sun damage, wrinkle prevention, skin maintenance or sun protection the future is in lipids and essential fatty acids (EFAs). EFAs are the precursors to the regulatory prostaglandins, which provide the communication and control necessary for a group of cells to stay together. In the skin itself, EFAs form ceramides which are the barrier-forming lipids of the epidermis. To make an increasingly long story much too short, here is what we know:
1) The composition of lipids compromising the extracellular matrix are 50% ceramides, 25% cholesterol and 15% free fatty acids.
2) Essential fatty acid deficiencies have been identified as resulting in abnormalities in the proper functioning of the stratum corneum (barrier function properties obtain primarily in the SC, the top layer of the epidermis).
Studies have demonstrated that when certain lipids are applied topically they will be incorporated into the intercellular lipid matrix and lipid barrier. Once incorporated they will assist in repairing the matrix and barrier, thus increasing the moisture binding properties of skin leading to reduced moisture loss and improved skin health. The question then becomes: which lipids critical to barrier function should be part of a “lipid mix”?
A recent Johns Hopkins’ study points to characteristics of aging occurring as a result of:
‘1) accumulation of very long chain fatty acids (VLCFAs) in states of toxicity, 2) Omega-3 and Omega-6 imbalance/deficiency and 3) disturbed prostaglandin synthesis.’ These findings as well as the North Korean finding quoted above should be borne in mind in the formulation process. A truly effective anti-aging oil blend provides solutions to many of the problems associated with premature aging. For example:
1) Problem: VLCFAs tend to accumulate in the body due to over-consumption of transfats. Solution: Naturally occurring saturated fats like emu oil and coconut oil are excellent substitutes for hydrogenated oils.
2) Problem: Of the two basic fatty acid groups: omega-n-6 and omega-n-3, the former tends to be well-represented in the modern diet while the latter, where the source is mainly fish oil, tends to be in short supply, hence the imbalance. Solution: Oils taken from animal as well as plant sources help to right the imbalance.
3) Problem: An excess of dietary omega 6 fatty acids (particularly arachidonic acid) saturates the two glycerol fatty acid positions on membrane phospholipids, disturbing the normal PG pathway, which may result in excess production of pro-inflammatory prostaglandins. Solution: Providing oils high in omega-n-3 fatty acids restores the desired ratio. An ideal ratio would be in the 2:1 range, with omega 6s predominating.
4) Problem: Finding a source of the phospholipid phosphatidylserine. Solution: Again, the animal source versus plant source debate rears its head, with the animal source emerging the clear winner. Soy lecithin may have some beneficial effects, but the fatty acid profile is not ideal. Better options are krill oil, squalane from shark liver oil and snails, all of which have a more utilizable fatty acid profile.
Below are just some of the lipids Marie Veronique uses for their beneficial properties:
Sea Buckthorn oil–The major EFAs contained in seabuckthorn oil are oleic and linoleic acids. It also contains the following essential fatty acids: pentadecenoic, palmitoleic, heptadecenoic, linolenic, eicosenoic, eicosadienoic, erucic and nervonic. Among the carotenes found in Seabuckthorn are alfa- and beta-carotenes, lycopene, cryptoxanthin, zeaxanthin, taraxanthin and phytofluin. Tocopherols are primarily vitamin E and gamma-tocopherol. Phytosterols of seabuckthorn oil include beta-sitosterol, beta-amirol and erithrodiol.
Marula oil’s high content of palmitic acid creates a protective coating on the surface of the skin. It also has a high concentration of anti-oxidants.
Red raspberry seed oil possesses an exceptionally high proportion of alpha and gamma tocopherols (Vitamin E), vitamin A and omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids. Red raspberry seed oil offers the skin broad spectrum protection from damaging UV-A and UV-B rays.
Cranberry seed oil is rich in tocotrienols (vitamin E) and other antioxidants, and possesses a unique balance of omega 3, 6 and 9 EFAs not found in other oils.
Emu oil possesses the balance of omega 3, 6 and 9 EFAs that is ideal for healing skin and promoting skin, hair and nail growth. It is anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, has a natural SPF, is a natural emollient and moisturizer, penetrates multiple layers of skin, is non-comedogenic, hypo-allergenic, prevents and diminishes scarring/stretch marks and more. It is recommended for use in a variety of skin disorders and allergies.
Pomegranate seed oil is high in lipids including pucinic acid. Its high polyphenol content makes it a strong anti-oxidant, and it contains conjugated fatty acids which gives it strong anti-inflammatory properties.
Krill oil (from a crustacean) contains vitamin E, vitamin A, vitamin D and canthaxanthin, which is, like astaxanthin, a potent anti-oxidant. The anti-oxidant potency of krill oil is such that when compared to fish oil in terms of ORAC (Oxygen radical absorptance capacity) values it was found to be 48 times more potent than fish oil. The phospholipid profile for krill oil is: PC 42%, PS 5.2%, PI 15.8% and sphingomyelin 10.4%.
The astaxanthin found in krill oil provides excellent protection against ultraviolet light and UV-induced skin damage.
Squalane from shark’s liver oil is an excellent source of phosphatidylserine.
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05.29.08
Posted in hyperpigmentation at 12:32 am by Administrator
In addition to depigmenting effects some of the natural ingredients discussed in our hyperpigmentation article have other benefits.
Vitamin C helps to decompose preformed melanin, is a photoprotectant and anti-inflammatory, and is required for and stimulates collagen synthesis. After application it cannot be washed or rubbed off.
Licorice extract inhibits tyrosinase activity and reduces UV induced inflammation.
Green Tea’s catechin constituents are responsible for its ability to inhibit tyrosinase. The anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and UV protectant properties of green tea catechins are also well-documented.
Lactic acid inhibits tyrosinase, increases natural ceramides (barrier lipids) and stimulates the biosynthesis of glycosamineglycans (GAGs), making skin soft and supple.
Paper mulberry contains active depigmenting agents.
Ku shen (Sophora flavescens) contains flavanone derivatives shown to inhibit melanin production. It has a number of uses in Chinese medicine, including the control of inflammation.
About Hydroquinone
Hydroquinone is known to produce serious side effects when used over a long period of time. It is reported to increase the risk of developing leukemia, liver cancer, skin irritation, irreversible hyperpigmentation and reproductive damage. Hydroquinone photosensitizes the skin and makes it susceptible to skin cancer. It is completely banned for use in cosmetics in Europe and Japan. Fortunately it is possible to get excellent results without using this dangerous product. I strongly encourage people who are using a product containing hydroquinone to consider other alternatives.
About Vitamin C and kojic acid
Applied topically, Vitamin C is an excellent antidote against photoaging of the skin. Research studies have shown that regular application of topical Vitamin C provides wavelength-independent ultraviolet protection and results in clinically visible anti-wrinkling. When exposed to sunlight, topical Vitamin C products prevent sunburn damage without blocking vitamin D synthesis, unlike other sunscreen products in the market.
The problem with Vitamin C is that it is unstable, unless it is in a dry form. In the presence of air, liquid or other oxidizing agents vitamin C is easily converted to oxidized forms. The oxidized vitamin C is not only incapable of boosting collagen synthesis or scavenging free radicals, it may actually promote free radical formation because it has become an oxidant. In other words, Vitamin C in serums or creams may already be oxidized by the time you apply them to your skin. In this case they will be working against you, not for you. In addition, only highly concentrated preparations (10% or more) deliver enough vitamin C to the cells to be topically effective. One solution is to dissolve a small amount of a powdered form of ascorbic acid into a sun lotion, then apply it directly to the face.
Kojic acid is a by-product in the fermentation process of malting rice for use in the manufacturing of sake, the Japanese rice wine. Research indicates that is highly effective in reducing the pigment in melasma patients Unfortunately it is too unstable to be used in cosmetic formulations–upon exposure to air or sunlight it can turn a strange shade of brown and lose its efficacy. Many cosmetic companies use kojic dipalmitate as an alternative because it is far more stable in formulations. However, there is no research showing kojic dipalmitate to be as effective as kojic acid, although is it a good antioxidant. As with Vitamin C, your best bet is to keep kojic acid away from light. Dissolve a small amount into serum or water, then apply to the face. Use at night, and use a good sunblock in the morning.
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05.28.08
Posted in Facts About UV Protection, Skin Aging Facts, hyperpigmentation at 11:25 pm by Administrator
Skin color is influenced by melanin, and variation in skin pigmentation is attributed to the levels of melanin produced and the number of melanocytes present. Fair and darker skinned people may have the same number of melanocytes, but darker tones obtain where melanin production is higher. In addition, the rate of degradation of melanin in the epidermal layers of darker skin is lower.
Melanogenesis (melanin biosynthesis) is influenced by genetics, environmental factors, diet and medication. Many people want to use a skin lightening product to address irregular pigmentation issues including malasma, age spots (Lentigus senilis) or liver spots (associated with sun damage or aging sometimes appearing as raised spots Seborrheic keratoses) and freckles (Lentigo aestiva). Unfortunately many products on the market are either dangerous, as in the case of hydroquinone (see “about hydroquinone” below), or they don’t seem to have much effect. The good news is that you can get excellent results with a product containing safe ingredients. The bad news is that you won’t see changes overnight, so patience is required. Remember to use an effective sunblock every day whether you are on a skin brightening program or not; it is your first line of defense against further skin damage.
Many studies indicate that natural agents can help to lighten skin gradually, over time. Let’s take a look at how and why they work.
Melanogenesis
The production of melanin by specialized cells called melanocytes occurs through the action of the enzyme tyrosinase. The rate-limiting step in melanogenesis is the conversion of L-tyrosinase to melanin, through the action of tyrosinase. Controlling melanin synthesis is usually accomplished at the first step of the melanogensis process by inhibiting tyrosinase, though other products/ingredients may affect other stages of the process: physical sunscreens block UVA rays which initiate tyrosinase activity, anti-oxidants chelate metal ions like copper which catalyze tyrosinase activity, and anti-inflammatories control inflammation which can often induce hyperpigmentation because it affects proliferation and functioning of melanocytes.
We can look at melanogenesis as a three-step process, as diagrammed below:
TYROSINE
I
I ———UV light
I
I ——-tyrosinase
v
L-DOPA
I
I —Cu+
I —tyrosinase
I
v
DOPA QUINONE
I I
I I
v v
Eumelanin Pheomelanin (reddish-brown)
(brown-black)
There are many natural ingredients that work well to control melanogenesis at the first stage by inhibiting tyrosinase. These ingredients are better tolerated than hydroquinone, which has been banned for use in Europe and Japan.
STEP ONE: Arbutin from the leaves of the common bearberry (Arctophylos uva ursi), glabridin from licorice (Glycrrhiza glabra roots), catechins from green tea, paper mulberry (Brouzzometria kazinoki + B. papyrifera), Sophora flavescens (ku shen), lactic acid and ascorbic acid all work at the first stage by inhibiting tyrosinase activity.
STEP TWO: Kojic acid (a bacterial carbohydrate metabolite) works by chelating copper ions from the active site of the enzyme. Other chelators include other antioxidants and rice.
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05.27.08
Posted in Facts About UV Protection at 8:56 pm by Administrator
There are some misconceptions about sun protection and the role afforded by sunscreens that I think are important to clear up. Here’s a test to see how sun savvy you are:
Answer true or false:
1) An SPF of 45 gives me all-day protection
2) An SPF of 30 gives me all the protection I need
3) Mexoryl is the only way I can get UVA protection
4) If I am in Australia I need to stay out of the sun during certain hours
5) SPF protection is proportional
6) UVC rays are blocked by the ozone layer
7) Zinc oxide does not protect as well as micronized zinc oxide
Zinc oxide provides more protection than titanium dioxide
9) If I don’t care about getting wrinkles I don’t need to wear a sunscreen
10) You need a chemical sunscreen to get the best protection
1) False: SPF provides a rough estimate for the length of time you can stay in the sun without burning, but it depends on the individual’s burning time. Starting with a baseline of SPF 15 sun protective agents are double in concentration, so 15 to 30 is a doubled concentration while 15 to 45 triples it without providing much more protection (from about 93.3% protection in SPF 15 to 96.6% in SPF 30. If you are a “burner” you are better off applying SPF 15 every hour than SPF 30 every 2 hours.)
2) False: SPF ratings refer to amount of UVB protection only. Some sunscreens will say “full-spectrum UVB/UVB protection” but you need to look at the ingredients to make sure you are getting complete UVA protection.
3) False: Mexoryl is a chemical sunscreen that protects up to 380 nm. The UVA range is actually 320 to 400 nm.
4) True: The ozone layer is thinning in some places on the planet, and no sunscreen protects against UVC rays. UVC rays pose a very serious risk for skin damage in some areas, and your best bet is to wear clothing and stay in the shade, especially during peak burning hours.
5) False: SPF protection goes up incrementally as concentrations of active ingredients double. SPF 8 = 87% protection, SPF 15=93.3%, SPF 30=97.7%. SPF ratings beyond 30 are fairly meaningless.
6) False: this is a qualified false and borders on opinion on my part. Some scientists insist ozone absorbs all the UVC rays, while some suggest that in places where the ozone layer is thinning there might be a risk. I believe in erring on the side of caution. In any case, fair-skinned people should limit their amount of beach time during peak burning times no matter where they are—reflections from water (and snow) increase UVB and UVA exposure.
7) False: Zinc oxide in larger particles (100 microns and larger) provides better protection because it works by reflecting or scattering UVA/UVB rays. In addition, nanoparticles may be absorbed by the skin and even enter the bloodstream, and the repercussions there are unknown. But that’s another story.
True: Zinc oxide protects in the 280 to 400 nm range, so provides full-spectrum UVB/UVA protection. Titanium dioxide protects from 280 to 360 nm. Micronized versions probably provide less protection, but no studies have been done in this area.
9) False: Again, I kind of sit on the fence about this one. UVB rays have been linked to squamous cell and basal cell carcinomas, and most scientists accept that more than 90% of skin cancers are the result of sun exposure. However, no link has been established between deadly melanomas and sun exposure, so if you don’t care about wrinkles, sun spots, premature aging and possibly getting a basal cell lesion then fine, don’t wear sun screen. I have noticed that men more than women fall into this category (no, really?) and to them I just provide one cautionary note—if you’re bald wear a hat to prevent painful sunburn. And to avoid lesions on the most susceptible part of your face, your poor little nose, at the very least slap some zinc oxide on your schnozz while you’re at the beach or skiing.
10) False: chemical sunscreens may irritate skin at higher concentrations, and about 15% of the population will break out from a chemical ingredient in a sunscreen product. The following ingredients have been linked to increasing free radical generation upon exposure to UV:
• octocrylene
• octylmethoxycinnimate
• benzophenone-3
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Posted in Facts About UV Protection at 8:53 pm by Administrator
We’ve talked a lot about the different wave-lengths of UV light, in particular UVA and UVB and how they affect the skin: UVB=burning, UVA=aging.
The discussion hasn’t touched on UVC for two reasons; 1) UVC rays are prevented from reaching the earth by the ozone layer, for the most part, and 2) I don’t want to be the one to sound alarm bells. However, so much misinformation abounds surrounding the complicated topic of sun protection that I feel I must take up the torch once again. This time the discussion will be around UV light and its relationship to skin cancer.
UVB: The UVB rays are the burning rays. They:
• Penetrate the epidermis
• Are present from 10AM to 4 PM
• Reflect off shiny surfaces
• are linked to squamous and basal cell carcinomas, damage DNA
• are 1000x stronger than UVA
• stimulate melanin biosynthesis and keratinocyte production
UVA: The long wavelength, low energy UVA rays are the aging rays. They:
• penetrate glass and clouds, penetrate to the dermis (Only 10% of UVB rays reach the dermis, about 50% of UVA rays do)
• present from sun up to sundown
• cross-link collagen and elastin
• damage DNA, carcinogenic (though the least associated with skin cancer)
• destroy langerhans cells and immune function
• turn melanin darker
• 1000x more prevalent than UVB
• cause hyper-hypo-pigmentation and broken capillaries
UVC: The short wavelength, high energy UVC rays. They are:
• the most carcinogenic
• sterilizing rays used to kill small organisms
• mostly absorbed by the ozone layer, sunscreens provide NO protection
Skin cancer facts
When it comes to skin cancer, we know that more than 90% are the result of sun exposure, with over 1 million new cases being reported each year. One of three fair-skinned people will develop a skin cancer, and one out of five of the general population will do the same. However, while the link between the UVB rays (and to a lesser extent UVA rays) and squamous and basal cell carcinomas has been established, the link between deadly melanomas and sun exposure is less sure. Knowing the facts will help you make an informed choice about the degree of protection you want for yourself. Here are some things to look at before coming to a decision:
Cosmetic
If you want to avoid premature wrinkling or sunspots use full-spectrum UVA/UVB protection. Recommended: Zinc oxide at 20% concentration.
If you don’t care about any of these issues (and many men I have encountered fall in this category though few women, what a surprise) then wear a hat to protect your bald spot and put sunblock on your nose at the beach to protect against basal cell lesions and you’ll probably be fine.
Safety
Squamous and basal cell carcinoma risks are reduced with full-spectrum UVA/UVB protection. Zinc oxide at 20% concentration is your best protection. At least be aware of UVC risks, and if you are in Australia limit your sun exposure. During peak burning hours ANYWHERE where burning is a problem, at high altitudes, at the beach, in the water or skiing, you are better off to stay in the shade as much as possible.
Children
Children are looking at 100 years of sun exposure, and these days also at 100 years of exposure to ingredients in sunscreens. You have to balance for yourself which is ultimately more lethal. But here is my take on it.
For the first five years you can depend on a child’s natural protection to do the job for the most part. At the beach wear hats, clothing and slather them with diaper cream or 20% zinc oxide from a safe product. At other times, and if your child burns easily, look at using Vitamin C directly on the skin. Wet it with green tea to get more natural protection. Overture also contains astaxanthin to protect against burning naturally. Neither of these will interfere with Vitamin D synthesis. My recommendations for children 5 and under:
1) Vitamin C
2) Astaxanthin
3) For serious sun, zinc oxide from diaper rash cream or Sun Serum
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Posted in Outside the Box at 4:44 pm by Administrator
There is something you can do that’s even more beneficial for your skin than swilling water or popping pills. Taking care of your skin means taking care of the whole person, and lest we forget, as the brain is to intellect, the skin is to sensuality. It thrives on a healthy love life. Unfortunately, these days that is easier said than achieved. I don’t know how many of you have tried internet dating, but I have and it’s been disastrous. But because we all live on the internet it makes sense to use the internet to help us out of the dilemmas the internet may have gotten us into in the first place. A friend of mine turned me on to a website that does just that. Like all great ideas, we didn’t know we needed it until it showed up. Check it out–here’s an excerpt from one of their press releases.
NEW YORK, April 8, 2008 /PRNewswire/ — Consumers of online dating
services are often frustrated by repeated disappointment and no convenient way to review and learn from their dating experiences. Many married and committed individuals need a professional source of love-life information and guidance but are unwilling to identify themselves in an office setting. In response to this urgent love-life need, Dr. Thomas Jordan, a Manhattan clinical psychologist and university professor, developed anonymous, professionally conducted Internet workshops called the Love-Life Workshops –
www.lovelifeworkshops.com.
The website employs a large staff of 60 New York State licensed psychologists ready to explore personal love-life issues
in more than 100 workshops per week. Their sole objective is to provide very affordable, personalized information, guidance, and support to anonymous members experiencing difficulties in their love-lives, from dating to marriage to divorce.
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Posted in Outside the Box, skin care news at 4:38 pm by Administrator
You’ve all heard you are supposed to drink at least 3 liters of water daily to maintain healthy skin. If you were reading the above article carefully you may have noted that gradual intracellular dehydration is a key feature, even cause, of aging. Zs.-Nagy weighs in with this note, “…there is a continuous relative dehydration of the living systems during their whole life spans.” Some doctors have gone on record saying that most of our ills can be related to water deprivation.
Three liters a day is a helluva lot of water. There can be such a thing as too much water, as witness the boy who died in a recent water-drinking contest. I would say try to get about a liter or so of water a day if you can, but don’t forget, while we human beings are about 70% water, fruits and vegetables are usually more than that. Fruits and veggies do count as water intake. And if you are like me and you have a hard time drinking water, green tea is a great substitute. Eat a green salad, drink a few cups of green tea a day, and when you do drink water add a little juice like aloe vera, goji or watermelon to it. These juices are high in polysaccharides so you get the water-binding properties you need to stay hydrated. Watermelon also has lycopene, another skin-saver. Thirsty?—eat a slice of watermelon.
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Posted in Facts About UV Protection, skin care news at 4:31 pm by Administrator
The nanoparticle controversy brings up the all-important question of testing. What do we know, what tests are presently available, and what is on the horizon? I talked to Dr. Jay L. Nadeau, professor of bio-medical engineering at McGill University, who heads a nanotechnology research group funded under EPA’s STAR (Science and Technology to Achieve Results) program. One of the results of their research has been the publication of a quantitative test of free-radical generation from nanoparticles in solution.
I described to her the difficulties associated with testing levels of UVA protection in sunscreen. Testing protection against longer UV wavelengths (from 330 to 400+ nanomaters) is not as intuitive as UVB testing, which simply tests for protection against the immediately visible effects of burning. UVA rays don’t burn you, they age you, so it makes sense that these longer-term effects would be harder to measure. However, one test that has been adopted by Japan and Europe, called Persistent Pigment Darkening, (PPD), uses essentially the same methodology as is used in SPF testing. L’Oreal Research presented such a PPD test model in their recent study.
In the L’Oreal study human volunteers were exposed to 330-440 nm of light 3 times a week for 4 weeks. Exposed sites were compared with nonexposed sites, exposed sites protected with a broad UVA absorber, and exposed sites to which a sunscreen vehicle had been applied. Various parameters related to early photoaging due to UVA exposure, including pigment darkening, stratum corneum thickening and changes in elasticity, were measured.
This is a clumsy testing method to say the least, especially as it requires the use of human volunteers who must be subjected to potentially harmful UV rays. Dr. Nadeau suggests that “absorbance spectroscopy and fluorescence-based assays can also quantify UVA absorption.” (see “Photosynthesis of dopamine-modified quantum dots and effects on biological systems,” Clarke, Hollmann, Zhang, Suffern, Bradforth, Dmitrijevic, Minarik and Nadeau, Nature Materials 5(5): 409-17 (2006).
In other words, nanoparticles may be instrumental in resolving issues around nanoparticle safety, which certainly makes for an elegant solution. I am very hopeful that we will soon be seeing less invasive and more reliable testing coming from the nanotechnology community.
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Posted in Facts About UV Protection, skin care news at 4:25 pm by Administrator
In the event that there are potential risks associated with nanoparticle use, Friends of the Earth has recently begun a campaign advising the public to avoid using products that contain them. Their argument is that since the physics of nanoparticles is different we can’t predict their behaviour. They quote a 2004 report by the United Kingdom’s Royal Society, which recommends that “ingredients in the form of nanoparticles should undergo a full safety assessment by the relevant scientific advisory body before they are permitted for use in products.”
(Please see Friends of the Earth press release at this link for more details) http://www.foe.org/new/releases/may2006/nanorelease5162006.html
FOE points out that many companies continue to use nanoparticles in the absence of independent safety testing, and advise a moratorium on their use until studies can demonstrate their safety.
Companies use nanoparticles for different reasons. Many are using them as delivery systems in anti-aging creams, arguing that nanoparticles will drive other anti-aging ingredients (specifically anti-oxidants) into the dermis where they will promote collagen production and prevent cell damage. FOE points out, and rightly, that if they do indeed drive other ingredients into the skin then the risk of doing damage would correlate to how many harmful ingredients contained in the product are also being carried to the dermis, notably parabens, other preservatives and fragrances. However, as we do not really know whether nanoparticles penetrate intact skin, or whether they act as uptake for other ingredients, it’s at best an academic argument and at worst unduly alarmist. As an anti-aging mechanism nanoparticles show promise, but we are a long way from knowing whether they are creating more damage than they are delivering benefits.
Many companies are adding micronized mineral particles to their sunscreens, and FOE adds a caveat about this practice: “Nanoparticles of titanium dioxide and zinc oxide-used in large numbers of cosmetics, sunscreens and personal care products-have been shown to be photoactive, producing free radicals and causing DNA damage to skin cells when exposed to UV light.” This is a large claim, and while perhaps sounding a warning klaxon a bit on the side of shrill, it does underline the crying need for more testing of this new technology.
UVA Protection-We know we need it, but do we know to get it?
Aside from the question of whether nanoparticles generate free radicals, there is another problem associated with micronized sun protection products that we can state unequivocally: the smaller the particle, the less effective the UVA protection. This is because mineral sunblocks work differently than chemical sunscreens, which absorb UV rays, lowering energy levels and releasing energy as heat. Mineral sunblocks reflect or scatter energy rays, and for this reason are non-irritating, unlike chemical sunscreens which may cause skin irritations and even rashes, especially at higher concentrations. Micronized minerals are not as efficient at the physical process of scattering rays, so the question arises–we may have a product that disappears on the skin that people will wear, but how much protection are they actually getting?
The temporary answer, at least until such time as we know more about the effects of nanoparticles, lies in using a product that contains a high concentration of non-micronized zinc oxide. FOE lists companies that do not use nanoparticles in their sunscreens/blocks, and there are other small companies not listed that also do not use nanoparticles. Marie-Veronique Skin Therapy is one of them–though FOE did not list our company as one of the “good ones”, rest assured that we are waiting for more information about nanoparticle safety before we use them. There are also several good diaper rash creams on the market that contain high concentrations of zinc oxide in all-natural formulas. You may mix them with your daily sunscreen to ensure that you are getting adequate protection.
Sunscreens and skin cancer
On another note. A new sunblock has come out on the market that is a micronized zinc oxide at 16% concentration. It claims that it gives UVC protection. UVC are the very short wave-lengths of light that do not enter the atmosphere as they are blocked by the ozone layer. Clearly in areas where the ozone layer is thin or absent (like Australia) UVC is a problem. It is said that everybody over 40 in Australia has skin cancer (usually of the basal cell carcinoma type, where lesions are slow-growing and require removal by a physician, but are not life-threatening). However UVC exposure is a potential and very real hazard. No sunscreen or sunblock protects against UVC rays—so if you live in a high-risk area you should limit your sun exposure and wear clothing and hats. As much as I admire zinc oxide for its great benefits I know it doesn’t protect against UVC rays. Beware sunblocks or sunscreens that claim they offer UVC protection—it’s not true, and it is extremely irresponsible, bordering on criminal in my opinion, for companies to be making such a claim.
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