Lipids and Skin Health–a New Vision
Scientists in South Korea claim to have uncovered a fat molecule with strong anti-aging potential from tests on the ability of lipids to fight skin aging (see page on column right for the full article). The study, published in Volume 49, June 2008 issue of the Journal of Lipid Research, looked into the role of fat molecules in protecting aging effects of skin, with the most promising results coming from phosphatidylserine (PS). Their findings suggested that ‘PS may be a simple and natural way to fight wrinkles.’
This study points to the direction natural anti-aging skin care is taking. Whether your issue is rosacea, eczema, aging, sun damage, wrinkle prevention, skin maintenance or sun protection the future is in lipids and essential fatty acids (EFAs). EFAs are the precursors to the regulatory prostaglandins, which provide the communication and control necessary for a group of cells to stay together. In the skin itself, EFAs form ceramides which are the barrier-forming lipids of the epidermis. To make an increasingly long story much too short, here is what we know:
1) The composition of lipids compromising the extracellular matrix are 50% ceramides, 25% cholesterol and 15% free fatty acids.
2) Essential fatty acid deficiencies have been identified as resulting in abnormalities in the proper functioning of the stratum corneum (barrier function properties obtain primarily in the SC, the top layer of the epidermis).
Studies have demonstrated that when certain lipids are applied topically they will be incorporated into the intercellular lipid matrix and lipid barrier. Once incorporated they will assist in repairing the matrix and barrier, thus increasing the moisture binding properties of skin leading to reduced moisture loss and improved skin health. The question then becomes: which lipids critical to barrier function should be part of a “lipid mix”?
A recent Johns Hopkins’ study points to characteristics of aging occurring as a result of:
‘1) accumulation of very long chain fatty acids (VLCFAs) in states of toxicity, 2) Omega-3 and Omega-6 imbalance/deficiency and 3) disturbed prostaglandin synthesis.’ These findings as well as the North Korean finding quoted above should be borne in mind in the formulation process. A truly effective anti-aging oil blend provides solutions to many of the problems associated with premature aging. For example:
1) Problem: VLCFAs tend to accumulate in the body due to over-consumption of transfats. Solution: Naturally occurring saturated fats like emu oil and coconut oil are excellent substitutes for hydrogenated oils.
2) Problem: Of the two basic fatty acid groups: omega-n-6 and omega-n-3, the former tends to be well-represented in the modern diet while the latter, where the source is mainly fish oil, tends to be in short supply, hence the imbalance. Solution: Oils taken from animal as well as plant sources help to right the imbalance.
3) Problem: An excess of dietary omega 6 fatty acids (particularly arachidonic acid) saturates the two glycerol fatty acid positions on membrane phospholipids, disturbing the normal PG pathway, which may result in excess production of pro-inflammatory prostaglandins. Solution: Providing oils high in omega-n-3 fatty acids restores the desired ratio. An ideal ratio would be in the 2:1 ration, with omega 6s predominating.
4) Problem: Finding a source of the phospholipid phosphatidylserine. Solution: Again, the animal source versus plant source debate rears its head, with the animal source emerging the clear winner. Soy lecithin may have some beneficial effects, but the fatty acid profile is not ideal. Better options are krill oil, squalane from shark liver oil and snails, all of which have a more utilizable fatty acid profile.
Below are just some of the lipids Marie Veronique uses for their beneficial properties:
Sea Buckthorn oil–The major EFAs contained in seabuckthorn oil are oleic and linoleic acids. It also contains the following essential fatty acids: pentadecenoic, palmitoleic, heptadecenoic, linolenic, eicosenoic, eicosadienoic, erucic and nervonic. Among the carotenes found in Seabuckthorn are alfa- and beta-carotenes, lycopene, cryptoxanthin, zeaxanthin, taraxanthin and phytofluin. Tocopherols are primarily vitamin E and gamma-tocopherol. Phytosterols of seabuckthorn oil include beta-sitosterol, beta-amirol and erithrodiol.
Marula oil’s high content of palmitic acid creates a protective coating on the surface of the skin. It also has a high concentration of anti-oxidants.
Red raspberry seed oil possesses an exceptionally high proportion of alpha and gamma tocopherols (Vitamin E), vitamin A and omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids. Red raspberry seed oil offers the skin broad spectrum protection from damaging UV-A and UV-B rays.
Cranberry seed oil is rich in tocotrienols (vitamin E) and other antioxidants, and possesses a unique balance of omega 3, 6 and 9 EFAs not found in other oils.
Emu oil possesses the balance of omega 3, 6 and 9 EFAs that is ideal for healing skin and promoting skin, hair and nail growth. It is anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, has a natural SPF, is a natural emollient and moisturizer, penetrates multiple layers of skin, is non-comedogenic, hypo-allergenic, prevents and diminishes scarring/stretch marks and more. It is recommended for use in a variety of skin disorders and allergies.
Pomegranate seed oil is high in lipids including pucinic acid. Its high polyphenol content makes it a strong anti-oxidant, and it contains conjugated fatty acids which gives it strong anti-inflammatory properties.
Krill oil (from a crustacean) contains vitamin E, vitamin A, vitamin D and canthaxanthin, which is, like astaxanthin, a potent anti-oxidant. The anti-oxidant potency of krill oil is such that when compared to fish oil in terms of ORAC (Oxygen radical absorptance capacity) values it was found to be 48 times more potent than fish oil. The phospholipid profile for krill oil is: PC 42%, PS 5.2%, PI 15.8% and sphingomyelin 10.4%.
The astaxanthin found in krill oil provides excellent protection against ultraviolet light and UV-induced skin damage.
Squalane from shark’s liver oil is an excellent source of phosphatidylserine.
