06.13.08
Posted in Skin Aging Facts, skin care news at 3:55 pm by Administrator
Scientists in South Korea claim to have uncovered a fat molecule with strong anti-aging potential from tests on the ability of lipids to fight skin aging (see page on column right for full story). The study, published in Volume 49, June 2008 issue of the Journal of Lipid Research, looked into the role of fat molecules in protecting aging effects of skin, with the most promising results coming from phosphatidylserine (PS). Their findings suggested that ‘PS may be a simple and natural way to fight wrinkles.’
This study points to the direction natural anti-aging skin care is taking. Whether your issue is rosacea, eczema, aging, sun damage, wrinkle prevention, skin maintenance or sun protection the future is in lipids and essential fatty acids (EFAs). EFAs are the precursors to the regulatory prostaglandins, which provide the communication and control necessary for a group of cells to stay together. In the skin itself, EFAs form ceramides which are the barrier-forming lipids of the epidermis. To make an increasingly long story much too short, here is what we know:
1) The composition of lipids compromising the extracellular matrix are 50% ceramides, 25% cholesterol and 15% free fatty acids.
2) Essential fatty acid deficiencies have been identified as resulting in abnormalities in the proper functioning of the stratum corneum (barrier function properties obtain primarily in the SC, the top layer of the epidermis).
Studies have demonstrated that when certain lipids are applied topically they will be incorporated into the intercellular lipid matrix and lipid barrier. Once incorporated they will assist in repairing the matrix and barrier, thus increasing the moisture binding properties of skin leading to reduced moisture loss and improved skin health. The question then becomes: which lipids critical to barrier function should be part of a “lipid mix”?
A recent Johns Hopkins’ study points to characteristics of aging occurring as a result of:
‘1) accumulation of very long chain fatty acids (VLCFAs) in states of toxicity, 2) Omega-3 and Omega-6 imbalance/deficiency and 3) disturbed prostaglandin synthesis.’ These findings as well as the North Korean finding quoted above should be borne in mind in the formulation process. A truly effective anti-aging oil blend provides solutions to many of the problems associated with premature aging. For example:
1) Problem: VLCFAs tend to accumulate in the body due to over-consumption of transfats. Solution: Naturally occurring saturated fats like emu oil and coconut oil are excellent substitutes for hydrogenated oils.
2) Problem: Of the two basic fatty acid groups: omega-n-6 and omega-n-3, the former tends to be well-represented in the modern diet while the latter, where the source is mainly fish oil, tends to be in short supply, hence the imbalance. Solution: Oils taken from animal as well as plant sources help to right the imbalance.
3) Problem: An excess of dietary omega 6 fatty acids (particularly arachidonic acid) saturates the two glycerol fatty acid positions on membrane phospholipids, disturbing the normal PG pathway, which may result in excess production of pro-inflammatory prostaglandins. Solution: Providing oils high in omega-n-3 fatty acids restores the desired ratio. An ideal ratio would be in the 2:1 range, with omega 6s predominating.
4) Problem: Finding a source of the phospholipid phosphatidylserine. Solution: Again, the animal source versus plant source debate rears its head, with the animal source emerging the clear winner. Soy lecithin may have some beneficial effects, but the fatty acid profile is not ideal. Better options are krill oil, squalane from shark liver oil and snails, all of which have a more utilizable fatty acid profile.
Below are just some of the lipids Marie Veronique uses for their beneficial properties:
Sea Buckthorn oil–The major EFAs contained in seabuckthorn oil are oleic and linoleic acids. It also contains the following essential fatty acids: pentadecenoic, palmitoleic, heptadecenoic, linolenic, eicosenoic, eicosadienoic, erucic and nervonic. Among the carotenes found in Seabuckthorn are alfa- and beta-carotenes, lycopene, cryptoxanthin, zeaxanthin, taraxanthin and phytofluin. Tocopherols are primarily vitamin E and gamma-tocopherol. Phytosterols of seabuckthorn oil include beta-sitosterol, beta-amirol and erithrodiol.
Marula oil’s high content of palmitic acid creates a protective coating on the surface of the skin. It also has a high concentration of anti-oxidants.
Red raspberry seed oil possesses an exceptionally high proportion of alpha and gamma tocopherols (Vitamin E), vitamin A and omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids. Red raspberry seed oil offers the skin broad spectrum protection from damaging UV-A and UV-B rays.
Cranberry seed oil is rich in tocotrienols (vitamin E) and other antioxidants, and possesses a unique balance of omega 3, 6 and 9 EFAs not found in other oils.
Emu oil possesses the balance of omega 3, 6 and 9 EFAs that is ideal for healing skin and promoting skin, hair and nail growth. It is anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, has a natural SPF, is a natural emollient and moisturizer, penetrates multiple layers of skin, is non-comedogenic, hypo-allergenic, prevents and diminishes scarring/stretch marks and more. It is recommended for use in a variety of skin disorders and allergies.
Pomegranate seed oil is high in lipids including pucinic acid. Its high polyphenol content makes it a strong anti-oxidant, and it contains conjugated fatty acids which gives it strong anti-inflammatory properties.
Krill oil (from a crustacean) contains vitamin E, vitamin A, vitamin D and canthaxanthin, which is, like astaxanthin, a potent anti-oxidant. The anti-oxidant potency of krill oil is such that when compared to fish oil in terms of ORAC (Oxygen radical absorptance capacity) values it was found to be 48 times more potent than fish oil. The phospholipid profile for krill oil is: PC 42%, PS 5.2%, PI 15.8% and sphingomyelin 10.4%.
The astaxanthin found in krill oil provides excellent protection against ultraviolet light and UV-induced skin damage.
Squalane from shark’s liver oil is an excellent source of phosphatidylserine.
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05.27.08
Posted in Outside the Box, skin care news at 4:38 pm by Administrator
You’ve all heard you are supposed to drink at least 3 liters of water daily to maintain healthy skin. If you were reading the above article carefully you may have noted that gradual intracellular dehydration is a key feature, even cause, of aging. Zs.-Nagy weighs in with this note, “…there is a continuous relative dehydration of the living systems during their whole life spans.” Some doctors have gone on record saying that most of our ills can be related to water deprivation.
Three liters a day is a helluva lot of water. There can be such a thing as too much water, as witness the boy who died in a recent water-drinking contest. I would say try to get about a liter or so of water a day if you can, but don’t forget, while we human beings are about 70% water, fruits and vegetables are usually more than that. Fruits and veggies do count as water intake. And if you are like me and you have a hard time drinking water, green tea is a great substitute. Eat a green salad, drink a few cups of green tea a day, and when you do drink water add a little juice like aloe vera, goji or watermelon to it. These juices are high in polysaccharides so you get the water-binding properties you need to stay hydrated. Watermelon also has lycopene, another skin-saver. Thirsty?—eat a slice of watermelon.
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Posted in Facts About UV Protection, skin care news at 4:31 pm by Administrator
The nanoparticle controversy brings up the all-important question of testing. What do we know, what tests are presently available, and what is on the horizon? I talked to Dr. Jay L. Nadeau, professor of bio-medical engineering at McGill University, who heads a nanotechnology research group funded under EPA’s STAR (Science and Technology to Achieve Results) program. One of the results of their research has been the publication of a quantitative test of free-radical generation from nanoparticles in solution.
I described to her the difficulties associated with testing levels of UVA protection in sunscreen. Testing protection against longer UV wavelengths (from 330 to 400+ nanomaters) is not as intuitive as UVB testing, which simply tests for protection against the immediately visible effects of burning. UVA rays don’t burn you, they age you, so it makes sense that these longer-term effects would be harder to measure. However, one test that has been adopted by Japan and Europe, called Persistent Pigment Darkening, (PPD), uses essentially the same methodology as is used in SPF testing. L’Oreal Research presented such a PPD test model in their recent study.
In the L’Oreal study human volunteers were exposed to 330-440 nm of light 3 times a week for 4 weeks. Exposed sites were compared with nonexposed sites, exposed sites protected with a broad UVA absorber, and exposed sites to which a sunscreen vehicle had been applied. Various parameters related to early photoaging due to UVA exposure, including pigment darkening, stratum corneum thickening and changes in elasticity, were measured.
This is a clumsy testing method to say the least, especially as it requires the use of human volunteers who must be subjected to potentially harmful UV rays. Dr. Nadeau suggests that “absorbance spectroscopy and fluorescence-based assays can also quantify UVA absorption.” (see “Photosynthesis of dopamine-modified quantum dots and effects on biological systems,” Clarke, Hollmann, Zhang, Suffern, Bradforth, Dmitrijevic, Minarik and Nadeau, Nature Materials 5(5): 409-17 (2006).
In other words, nanoparticles may be instrumental in resolving issues around nanoparticle safety, which certainly makes for an elegant solution. I am very hopeful that we will soon be seeing less invasive and more reliable testing coming from the nanotechnology community.
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Posted in Facts About UV Protection, skin care news at 4:25 pm by Administrator
In the event that there are potential risks associated with nanoparticle use, Friends of the Earth has recently begun a campaign advising the public to avoid using products that contain them. Their argument is that since the physics of nanoparticles is different we can’t predict their behaviour. They quote a 2004 report by the United Kingdom’s Royal Society, which recommends that “ingredients in the form of nanoparticles should undergo a full safety assessment by the relevant scientific advisory body before they are permitted for use in products.”
(Please see Friends of the Earth press release at this link for more details) http://www.foe.org/new/releases/may2006/nanorelease5162006.html
FOE points out that many companies continue to use nanoparticles in the absence of independent safety testing, and advise a moratorium on their use until studies can demonstrate their safety.
Companies use nanoparticles for different reasons. Many are using them as delivery systems in anti-aging creams, arguing that nanoparticles will drive other anti-aging ingredients (specifically anti-oxidants) into the dermis where they will promote collagen production and prevent cell damage. FOE points out, and rightly, that if they do indeed drive other ingredients into the skin then the risk of doing damage would correlate to how many harmful ingredients contained in the product are also being carried to the dermis, notably parabens, other preservatives and fragrances. However, as we do not really know whether nanoparticles penetrate intact skin, or whether they act as uptake for other ingredients, it’s at best an academic argument and at worst unduly alarmist. As an anti-aging mechanism nanoparticles show promise, but we are a long way from knowing whether they are creating more damage than they are delivering benefits.
Many companies are adding micronized mineral particles to their sunscreens, and FOE adds a caveat about this practice: “Nanoparticles of titanium dioxide and zinc oxide-used in large numbers of cosmetics, sunscreens and personal care products-have been shown to be photoactive, producing free radicals and causing DNA damage to skin cells when exposed to UV light.” This is a large claim, and while perhaps sounding a warning klaxon a bit on the side of shrill, it does underline the crying need for more testing of this new technology.
UVA Protection-We know we need it, but do we know to get it?
Aside from the question of whether nanoparticles generate free radicals, there is another problem associated with micronized sun protection products that we can state unequivocally: the smaller the particle, the less effective the UVA protection. This is because mineral sunblocks work differently than chemical sunscreens, which absorb UV rays, lowering energy levels and releasing energy as heat. Mineral sunblocks reflect or scatter energy rays, and for this reason are non-irritating, unlike chemical sunscreens which may cause skin irritations and even rashes, especially at higher concentrations. Micronized minerals are not as efficient at the physical process of scattering rays, so the question arises–we may have a product that disappears on the skin that people will wear, but how much protection are they actually getting?
The temporary answer, at least until such time as we know more about the effects of nanoparticles, lies in using a product that contains a high concentration of non-micronized zinc oxide. FOE lists companies that do not use nanoparticles in their sunscreens/blocks, and there are other small companies not listed that also do not use nanoparticles. Marie-Veronique Skin Therapy is one of them–though FOE did not list our company as one of the “good ones”, rest assured that we are waiting for more information about nanoparticle safety before we use them. There are also several good diaper rash creams on the market that contain high concentrations of zinc oxide in all-natural formulas. You may mix them with your daily sunscreen to ensure that you are getting adequate protection.
Sunscreens and skin cancer
On another note. A new sunblock has come out on the market that is a micronized zinc oxide at 16% concentration. It claims that it gives UVC protection. UVC are the very short wave-lengths of light that do not enter the atmosphere as they are blocked by the ozone layer. Clearly in areas where the ozone layer is thin or absent (like Australia) UVC is a problem. It is said that everybody over 40 in Australia has skin cancer (usually of the basal cell carcinoma type, where lesions are slow-growing and require removal by a physician, but are not life-threatening). However UVC exposure is a potential and very real hazard. No sunscreen or sunblock protects against UVC rays—so if you live in a high-risk area you should limit your sun exposure and wear clothing and hats. As much as I admire zinc oxide for its great benefits I know it doesn’t protect against UVC rays. Beware sunblocks or sunscreens that claim they offer UVC protection—it’s not true, and it is extremely irresponsible, bordering on criminal in my opinion, for companies to be making such a claim.
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04.12.08
Posted in Skin Aging Facts, skin care news at 3:49 pm by Administrator
Benefits to your skin of Vitamin C
We all know about the benefits of Vitamin C. In order to keep skin smooth, supple and wrinkle-free it is crucial we have enough Vitamin C every day. As we get older we can take as much as 1-2 grams or even more. Besides internal supplements Vitamin C applied topically can also be of great benefit. Here’s why:
• Vitamin C is an excellent antidote against photoaging of the skin when applied topically. Research studies have shown that regular application of topical Vitamin C provides wavelength-independent ultraviolet protection and results in clinically visible anti-wrinkling.
• When exposed to sunlight, topical Vitamin C products prevent sunburn damage without blocking vitamin D synthesis, unlike other sunscreen products in the market.
• Once applied, it is absorbed in the skin and cannot be washed or sweated off. In addition to being a powerful anti-oxidant Vitamin C plays a crucial role in two processes that become very important as we get older—collagen synthesis and inhibition of melanogenesis.
• A critical step in the bio-synthesis of collagen involves Vitamin C. If it is not present, collagen production halts, it’s that simple.
• In the presence of UV light the melanogenesis process goes to work to produce melanin—the brownish-red and back-brown pigments that look like freckles or tanning, or in worst-case scenarios like age spots, sun spots, blotchiness or hyperpigmentation (uneven distribution of pigment). Vitamin C works at the first step of the process to turn off melanogenesis.
The Problem with Vitamin C Creams, Lotions and Serums
There is a major problem associated with topicals containing Vitamin C, namely, that in the presence of air, liquid or other oxidizing agents it is easily converted to oxidized forms. Oxidized vitamin C is not only incapable of boosting collagen synthesis or scavenging free radicals, it may actually promote free radical formation.
• Most serums and creams contain oxidized Vitamin C, which means that not only are they providing no benefits, they may actually be harming your skin.
• Only highly concentrated preparations (10% or more) deliver enough vitamin C to the cells to be topically effective.
The solution is simple—add powdered Vitamin C to your daily sunscreen just before you apply it to your face, neck and hands. In a very short time you will see amazing changes in your skin.
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