05.29.08
Natural Ingredients in the Treatment of Pigmentation
In addition to depigmenting effects some of the natural ingredients discussed in our hyperpigmentation article have other benefits.
Vitamin C helps to decompose preformed melanin, is a photoprotectant and anti-inflammatory, and is required for and stimulates collagen synthesis. After application it cannot be washed or rubbed off.
Licorice extract inhibits tyrosinase activity and reduces UV induced inflammation.
Green Tea’s catechin constituents are responsible for its ability to inhibit tyrosinase. The anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and UV protectant properties of green tea catechins are also well-documented.
Lactic acid inhibits tyrosinase, increases natural ceramides (barrier lipids) and stimulates the biosynthesis of glycosamineglycans (GAGs), making skin soft and supple.
Paper mulberry contains active depigmenting agents.
Ku shen (Sophora flavescens) contains flavanone derivatives shown to inhibit melanin production. It has a number of uses in Chinese medicine, including the control of inflammation.
About Hydroquinone
Hydroquinone is known to produce serious side effects when used over a long period of time. It is reported to increase the risk of developing leukemia, liver cancer, skin irritation, irreversible hyperpigmentation and reproductive damage. Hydroquinone photosensitizes the skin and makes it susceptible to skin cancer. It is completely banned for use in cosmetics in Europe and Japan. Fortunately it is possible to get excellent results without using this dangerous product. I strongly encourage people who are using a product containing hydroquinone to consider other alternatives.
About Vitamin C and kojic acid
Applied topically, Vitamin C is an excellent antidote against photoaging of the skin. Research studies have shown that regular application of topical Vitamin C provides wavelength-independent ultraviolet protection and results in clinically visible anti-wrinkling. When exposed to sunlight, topical Vitamin C products prevent sunburn damage without blocking vitamin D synthesis, unlike other sunscreen products in the market.
The problem with Vitamin C is that it is unstable, unless it is in a dry form. In the presence of air, liquid or other oxidizing agents vitamin C is easily converted to oxidized forms. The oxidized vitamin C is not only incapable of boosting collagen synthesis or scavenging free radicals, it may actually promote free radical formation because it has become an oxidant. In other words, Vitamin C in serums or creams may already be oxidized by the time you apply them to your skin. In this case they will be working against you, not for you. In addition, only highly concentrated preparations (10% or more) deliver enough vitamin C to the cells to be topically effective. One solution is to dissolve a small amount of a powdered form of ascorbic acid into a sun lotion, then apply it directly to the face.
Kojic acid is a by-product in the fermentation process of malting rice for use in the manufacturing of sake, the Japanese rice wine. Research indicates that is highly effective in reducing the pigment in melasma patients Unfortunately it is too unstable to be used in cosmetic formulations–upon exposure to air or sunlight it can turn a strange shade of brown and lose its efficacy. Many cosmetic companies use kojic dipalmitate as an alternative because it is far more stable in formulations. However, there is no research showing kojic dipalmitate to be as effective as kojic acid, although is it a good antioxidant. As with Vitamin C, your best bet is to keep kojic acid away from light. Dissolve a small amount into serum or water, then apply to the face. Use at night, and use a good sunblock in the morning.
